Salineras de Maras And Moray

Today I took an interesting tour which included Salineras de Maras (salt mines of Maras) and Moray which is an archaeological site that contains agricultural terraces that were used by the Incas. The tour started early in the morning which was fine by me because I managed to catch up with my sleep during the long drive.

The first site we were meant to pass by was Salineras de Maras but before getting there we stopped at this small town to check out the process of making the famous traditional textiles you see all over Cuzco. It was amazing seeing the whole process from scratch and seeing the end product which was beautiful. We were shown how the hair from alpacas or sheep are first cleaned then made into thread, after this process the formed thread is dyed and finally woven to create very beautiful wall hangings, mats or table runners.

In the picture below you can see the thread being dyed using naturally produced dyes from plants.

See the contraption in the picture below? this is how the weaving is done. One of the women was saying they can work for up to 5 hours a day on one product.

The final products. Yes! all that is natural and it take weeks to finish depending on the design and size.

This was funny, just incase you got carried away by the traditional aspect of the whole weaving process, you had credit card machines to remind you of the modern conveniences.

After checking out the very interesting weaving process we finally made it to Salineras de Maras. Salt  was a very important commodity during the Incan times and it was actually used as currency for trade back in those days. These mines are still used up till today for salt production.

The mines are located down in a valley and as the tour bus descended we could see the very pretty site of the white salt against the backdrop of the hills and mountains around. It's hard to describe it and pictures don't do them justice.

Closer image of the salt mines. Since the mines were down in a valley we had to make our way down to get a closer look, the walk was a bit tricky because you could easily slip and fall.

Apparently there are different types of salt. There is salt used for cooking and salt used for medicinal purposes, you can not consume the medicinal salt but have to take a bath with it. The guide was also telling us that it's not good to eat the salt directly from the mines because you could get sick. Iodine has to be added to the salt to make it consumable.

After having our fill at the salt mines, we headed to Moray an archeological site that's incredible! as I mentioned before this site consist of agricultural terraces that were used by the Incas. The structure of the site is a site to behold but the story behind it is even more amazing. This is where the Incas performed agricultural experiments and acclimatized different crops over a period of time before growing them in different areas.

Look at the picture below, see the different layers of terraces? each layer has a different temperature so the Incas would use the variations of these temperatures to acclimatize the different crops until they achieved the wanted results. Can you imagine how they came up with the idea of building these terraces? it's amazing if you ask me.

As you can see from the picture below, the terraces are down a valley so once again we had to go down to get close to the terraces.

Closer look at the terraces.

The protrusions you see in the picture below are the steps that the Incas created to descend and ascend from the terraces.

That's it folks, the tour was very interesting and informative and I am glad I did not pass on it because at first I wasn't sure whether it was worth checking out. I definitely learned new things today!

Random Thoughts of The Day:

If you want to lose weight just come to Cuzco, I am so serious! some of the steep paths you will have to take could substitute any stair climber in the gym. I got such a work out during the tour from coming up the salt mines and the agricultural terraces. My butt and thighs better be grateful.

I think by the time I leave Peru my ego will be like my butt - big! the compliments I get over here are too much (I am not complaining at all!). In addition to being asked out by random dudes on the streets, I have been given a handwoven bracelet (this dude stopped me on the streets and started chatting me up before making me a bracelet as a gift), my groceries have been carried for me, I have been offered free city tours and invited to hang out..............Le sigh! I am actually enjoying the attention to be honest with you.

Lima and Cuzco are very different from each other. Lima is this modern developed city while Cuzco seems more traditional and a bit rough around the edges. It took me a while but I have to say Cuzco has grown on me.

My impatience will be the death of me one of these fine days. This past week I have had a series of unfortunate events and I have no one to blame but myself. Aaargh! I need to get it together.

Peru has over 4,000 different types of potatoes, yes! you read that right 4,000!

Pisac Market

Pisac is a town situated about an hour away from Cusco and everyday they have an artisan market where you can get some very beautiful products. On Sundays the market is larger and quite a number of people visit the town to check it out. There are tours that actually include the market as part of their attraction but you can easily do it on your own without a tour company.

I got to visit Pisac with some of my housemates and together we decided to take a colectivo (small mini van) to the town as opposed to doing a tour. The colectivo cost about $3 for the hour long trip which wasn't bad at all although I have to say that the roads were very windy as the terrain was quite mountainous, I was actually crossing my fingers that I don't get motion sickness. 

When we got to the town we saw so many tourists that all we had to do was follow them to get to the market. The market itself was very colorful and it actually reminded me of the one in Ecuador, Otavalo. There were so many beautiful things that I have to pat myself on the back for not succumbing to temptation because there was great potential for doing some damage to my account. Price wise I would say certain items were more expensive as compared to what you would find around Cuzco while others were cheaper. It really depended on what you were looking for.

With all the vibrant colors of course I had to take some pictures so here you go, enjoy!

This was one of the streets leading to the market.

Take a look at the wall hangings and table runners below, the colors! Ooh! the colors! love them!!

I am not into ponchos but I have to say I saw some very pretty ones that for a minute I was tempted to  buy one. Thank goodness the prices slapped me back to reality!

This was a very common site, you would see some of the ladies busy at work manually creating some of the beautiful items found at the market.

This lady was selling naturally made dyes and the colors were very bright I could not resist being drawn to them. I had this urge to dip my hands into them........yeah! weird I know.

In addition to the artisanal products being sold there were also all kinds of fruits and vegetables.

Together with my housemates.

That's it folks, Pisac is worth checking out definitely especially on a lazy Sunday when wondering what laid back activities to partake in, not too far from Cuzco.

Random Thoughts of The Day:

There are so many similarities between the artisanal products in Peru and Ecuador. I have to say so far I think these two countries have the best artisanal products within the continent. Note that I said so far because who knows? I might go elsewhere and find even more beautiful and colorful products.

Taxi drivers here are very chatty! I really don't mind this since I also enjoy chatting with them and learning something about their personal lives. There is one who told me about his wife leaving him after 30 years of marriage and he now sees a therapist because it hurts him really bad, there is one who told me about being a womanizer in his hey days although he tells his kids he never touched any other woman apart from his wife (their mother), there is one who told me he works 14 hours a day to pay for his kids' tuition in University and he can't wait for them to finish their education so he can retire and finally rest...........the stories are endless and I listen to all of them.

I was hanging out with this guy I met when I first landed in Cuzco and as we were walking around town I asked him which parts are safe to walk by alone. He stopped in his tracks and turned toward me then with a very serious look on his face he whispered, "amor, the only thing you need to fear is someone trying to rob a kiss from you." it was all so dramatic and telenovela-ish especially since it was said in Spanish. I burst out laughing, I couldn't help it. He did reach for a kiss but the speed at which I swerved to avoid it was quite impressive. Really, who falls for these antics??!! 

I guess some girls do because I saw him at Pisac market going all hot and heavy with another girl. I was actually behind them and the only reason I noticed them is because they suddenly stood in the middle of the street and started kissing and I almost bumped into them. I could just picture him giving the same dramatic speech to the girl.

My host, the British Nigerian guy was asking me if anyone has tried to touch me because of my skin color. I didn't understand what he meant until he told me that people try to rub his skin all the time for good luck. Apparently there is a belief here that rubbing the skin of a black man brings good luck. He was narrating how he went to a hot spring once and people would try to be sneaky by gliding near him to rub his arm or leg, it was actually funny how he narrated it. Maybe this only applies to men because no one has tried rubbing my skin.

My hair on the other hand has been receiving plenty of attention. I get so many compliments from both men and women and these two ladies I met even told me that if I ever cut my hair I should sell it because they know people who would buy it. Hmmmm? if I ever go broke in Peru at least I know how I can get some change for food.

Living On The Vegetarian Side of Life

So this girl right here has decided to go back to being a vegetarian after back sliding for a few months. As I have said before, it just got complicated being vegetarian while traveling through Colombia and Ecuador so I started eating meat again. In all honesty though, the meat was delicious and there is only so much resistance I could put up.

Here in Cusco I was introduced to this nice vegan restaurant called Green Point and let's just say I have been having my daily lunches there. The ambience is really great and the price for the daily menu is cheap which is good for some of us traveling on a budget. For 10 Peruvian soles (about $3) you get salad, soup, main meal, a drink and desert! not bad huh? I am usually so full by the end of the meal that I never need dinner afterwards.

I always look forward to the menu of the day because they serve different dishes so it is always a good surprise for me. I am not a foodie and I can eat the same boring meal daily without any qualms so you can imagine how my very unsophisticated palate has been enjoying these different intricately prepared daily menus.

Let me take you on a five day tour of the food I have been enjoying since I was introduced to this vegan restaurant. By the way don't expect elaborate and sophisticated descriptions of the food, I had a hard time remembering what was what to begin with let alone go on about the various ingredients included in the food and the preparation process.

Causa - Seasoned mashed potatoes stuffed with veggies and topped with a tomato and avocado cream. On the side a veggie kebab is included.

Papa Rellena - Veggie stuffed potato dipped in some sauce which tasted like it had some garlic in it, it was really good!

Mashed Sweet Potatoes and Stuffed Cabbage - This is pretty self explanatory but I have to say the cabbage was stuffed with some really good seasoned vegetables so everything mixed together was very tasty.

Tacu Tacu - This is a mixture of seasoned rice and beans formed into rolls then topped with veggie stuffed pepper.

Curried Rice & Vegetables - Pretty self explanatory here, the curried rice wasn't as spicy as those I have had in Indian restaurants but it was still tasty and the vegetables were well seasoned.

Here are a couple of pictures I took of the restaurant just to give you an idea of how cozy it looks.

The salad bar.

That's it folks! I have heard Peru is a great foodie destination in South America so I guess I am in good hands as far as food is concerned.

Random Thoughts of The Day:

There are so many street dogs in Cuzco and you will see all kinds of breeds. Some are so cute you just want to take them home with you.

Second week in Cuzco and my body has yet to adjust to the altitude. I get headaches every night and feel nauseous even though I have been drinking coca tea and I take altitude sickness tablets. For someone who hardly ever gets sick or takes medicine, this is really tough for me.

I really like my two Spanish teachers. We have become friends and we have a lot of conversations about our personal lives aside from the normal school work. I will really miss them when I leave Cuzco.

I am always panting when walking outside because of the steep streets, I lose my breath very easily and even though I would like to think I am in good shape I have to say Cuzco has just been tough on me physically.

I don't want to scare anyone about this altitude sickness so I will say this, everyone is different and there is no way of telling who will be hit hard or who will not. Some foreigners I have met here have not been affected at all and don't even take anything to help with the altitude. Heck! my first time in Cuzco two years ago I wasn't affected at all but for some reason this time round I have been hit hard!

I have met really amazing people through the house I am staying at and I am sure I will be in touch with some of them long after I have left this place.

Sometimes you just have to take certain risks and if all blows up in your face at least you will not have the "what if?" question lurking in your mind.

My Machu Picchu Experience

Cuzco is the gateway to Machu Picchu and being here you are bombarded with many tour options to this great site plus in conversations Machu Picchu comes up quite a lot which is understandable. I visited Machu Picchu two years ago so I will not be making a return trip but I just thought I would share my experience.

Please note that this narration dates back to 2012 and it's an email I had sent out to some of my friends.

I got up early to make sure that I was well prepared for my trip to Machu Picchu since pick up from my hotel was going to be at 6:15 am! the good thing is that breakfast at this hotel starts at 5 am so that worked out perfectly considering how early I was going to have to leave. I was picked up from the hotel and dropped off at the bus station where I was supposed to take a bus to another town called Ollantaytambo and from there I was to take a train that led to yet another town called Aguas Caliente and finally this last stop would drop me off at Machu Picchu finally (long trip right?!). I was to do this all by myself and meet the actual guide at Machu Picchu, I had a panicky moment because I wasn't sure whether I would get lost or not. The good thing is that there were plenty of other tourists so I just followed the masses since everyone was headed to Machu Picchu anyway. 

The bus ride was looooong!!!!!!!!! about two hours but it seemed like forever, the scenic views were pretty nice though so that made for an interesting ride. We finally got to the train station and I have to say chaotic is the only way I can describe it! it was jam packed with people and there were no clear directions to let you know what train was departing or arriving but fortunately order was somehow restored and I was able to get on the right train. 

The train ride was long and after about two to three hours we finally arrived at Aguas Calientes where we took a short bus ride to the base of Machu Picchu. We finally met with the guide who told us we would have to climb some steep stairs for about 5 minutes but it would all be worth it because we would get the best view of Machu Picchu once we got to the point he wanted us to start from. All the gym work I put in did not prepare me for that climb! I was panting like a dog and so was everyone else in the group, it was so funny because for a minute there it's like we were all synchronizing our pants, I am not even joking. 

The Climb

The climb was all so worth it though because when we got to the spot that the guide told us about, we got to see Machu Picchu in all it's glory right below us. We could see an overview of the whole place just like they portray in guide books or postcards. I can not even begin to tell you how beautiful it is! 

We spent a good two hours there with the guide telling us the history and showing us around the important areas within the site.

I took plenty of photos till I got bored and the good thing is that Machu Picchu is so photogenic that it flatters any photographer no matter how inexperienced they are. Every picture was just beautiful! I am so glad I came on this trip and got to see this great site, seriously the Incas were just brilliant! from engineering, agriculture, astrology, these people really understood things on another high level that makes you marvel at their achievements. Too bad the Spanish really set to destroy their civilization and aside from Machu Picchu which escaped their wrath because it was well hidden, everything else was pretty much destroyed. To date only 5% of their work remains outside Machu Picchu.

Developing A Routine In Cusco

So I may have been a bit harsh on Cusco but I have a good excuse for that. The past few days have been really tough for me because of this whole altitude adjustment. I have been pretty sick and so out of it that I was ready to pack my bags and get the hell out of here but thank goodness the voice of reason prevailed and I stuck it out.

Like with every city I have been to, I have developed a routine that has made me feel more at ease in my new environment and slowly by slowly, I am warming up to Cusco. Every morning I walk almost half an hour to the school where I take Spanish classes for 4 hours, 10 am to 2 pm. Four hours sounds crazy but it's actually not bad at all because the first two hours focus on grammar and the last two hours focus on conversational skills so I end up chatting with my really sweet teacher who makes it fun. I have two teachers, one for grammar and the other for conversation and they are both awesome so those four hours always seem to go by fast!

After my classes I go for lunch then head back to the house where I usually meet up with my new buddy from the house where we are both renting rooms in. He is such a sweet Israeli guy and we always have good conversations while taking long walks around the neighborhood. He knows the streets better than I do so I just follow his lead which is fine by me, with my horrible sense of direction I really don't mind at all! thanks to him I am getting to know my neighborhood better. After our walks we get to the house, chat a little bit more before calling it a night.

To get a better idea of my neighborhood (I live in the San Blas neighborhood) here are some pictures I have taken during our walks.

There is a mercado not too far from the house, you can buy: vegetables, fruits, meat and even get some freshly squeezed juice right on the spot.

View from the front of the house.

You see the gray building in the picture below? I live next to it, there are a set of stairs that I have to climb though in order to get to the house.

Every morning on my way to school I have to make my way down to the main road you see in the picture below. It's actually not a bad walk at all since it's down hill. There are a bunch of stairs that lead to the main road.

The sign below basically warns that any thief caught in the neighborhood will be lynched and burned, pretty graphic right? on the other hand I guess I should feel pretty safe in this neighborhood, with this dire warning who would try to rob anyone here?

I haven't had the chance to check out the salsa scene in this city but it's only my first week here and I am just beginning to feel normal again health wise so I am not in a hurry to do everything at once. I have enough time to do all I want here so there really is no rush.

That's it folks, I am glad I gave Cuzco another chance as I am beginning to appreciate it for what it is and I am looking forward to exploring more of it.

Random Thoughts of the Day:

Prior to coming to South America I had been a vegetarian for 7 years. Then I came here and it just got a bit complicated so I started eating meat again. Here in Cuzco there are options for vegetarians so I am back to my old life style.

Living in my neighborhood you get a good opportunity to work out because there are really steep streets that you have to walk along and going up hill is no joke.

One of my Spanish teachers was telling me how dangerous Lima is and was saying even in the bus someone can sit next to you and take out a gun forcing you to give them whatever they want and they will get away with it. The higher end neighborhoods are safer but if you venture outside them then you better watch your back especially if you are not familiar with the city.

Cuzco is safer from what I have heard and my teacher was telling me that in neighborhoods where you will find more of the indigenous population, all you need to do is shout thief and the whole neighborhood will come out to help and the thief usually gets lynched. In Ecuador my Spanish teacher had told me the same thing.

For the past 6 months I have lived with local families where I had to interact in Spanish which has helped me immensely as I have advanced to the intermediate level. Here in Cuzco I live among foreigners so I speak more English and that's why I really enjoy the 4 hours of daily Spanish classes because I get to practice and improve on the language.

I have developed a good rapport with my Spanish teachers so my classes are usually so much fun.